Travis Lett's (He's the chef who put NineThirty, the restaurant at the W Hotel in Westwood, on the map when it opened in 2005.) California cooking can be found here. At tables lined up under a charcoal plaster wall inscribed with graceful swirls, hungry folks are digging into platters of cured meats and cheeses, salads of burrata cheese with heirloom tomatoes and arugula, or beautiful thin-crusted pizzas smothered in fontina cheese, bitter greens and tomato confit. The wood-burning oven also turns out baby artichokes with Parmigiano and half a dozen other pizzasGjelina,1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, (310) 450-1429.
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